News and Specials
306 West Main St.
Mason, Ohio 45040
May Flower Sale:
20% off all floral fabric
20% off cross stitch fabric
See our Classes page for this month's classes.
If you would like to be
on my email list please send your current email address to firstname.lastname@example.org
and request to be on my list. I send one email per month with new
merchandise, current sale and a list of classes
Passion for Needlework: A beautiful
embroidery book from Inspirations
Aqua microcheck cotton: $10.50/yd
Pima cotton lawn, 45" wide, $16.00/yd
Sea Island Cotton Baby Knit: 60" wide.
100% pima cotton. White only. $20.00/yd This
fabric is beautiful. Soft, great weight, and smocks
and pleats great. Perfect for saques, nightgowns, bubbles.
A best seller.
Classic Sewing: $24.99
132 pages of smocking, embroidery, heirloom
sewing. Includes full patterns. Published 4 times per
New Smocking Plates:
Cross Eyed Cricket
Catching some Shade Fun in the Sun
Lobster Beach Day Sand
American Beauty Barnyard
Friends Lacy's Ladybugs
Leaping Lambs Mardi Gras Dancing Crawfish
Springs Welcome Blue
Bunnies Lady Bug Overload
gown for Bunny
Patch On the Farm
Carly Oh Christmas
Wendy Schoen Petite Poche
Le Petite Enfant Bonnet: $12.00
Spring, A ladies nighty Size xs - xl
Sarah Alyce: Size 6mo - 4T $14.00 Dress
or playsuit with darling scalloped or round collar and
pocket and sleeve variations.
Queen City Chapter of SAGA
The Queen City Chapter of SAGA would like you to be our guest:
We have an active Smocking Guild that meets monthly and
offers educational programs
as well as the friendship of those who share
the same sewing and needlework interest. We
have exciting things
planned for the next year and would love to include new members in our
meet at 7:30 pm on the 2nd Thursday of the month at Martha's Heirlooms, 306
Main St. Mason, Ohio. For more information on SAGA, log onto
more information on our local guild in Cincinnati, which has a lot to
its members e-mail me at email@example.com
Smocking with Corduroy
Corduroy has been a long time favorite for children's
clothing. It is durable, warm, soft and can make a special play or dressy garment. The colors available are beautiful and the featherwale
(21 wale per inch) gives the appearance of a velveteen. Featherwale corduroy is easy to pleat, smock, and
care for. In working with corduroy for several years in sewing children’s smocked clothing I have learned a lot,
mostly from trial and error. These are a few tips of mine to help give you the best results.
Nap up or down: What ever way you cut your fabric make
sure all pieces have the nap of the corduroy facing the same direction. Some people prefer to cut with the nap going up (smooth side of
nap) and some prefer it going down. I have found the the color of the corduroy will be richer with the wale going up
and you won’t have shiny areas after many wears at knees,
backs of skirts and places that the nap would have more
pressure with wear. Most people love the feel of the nap going down so what ever you prefer is correct.
Wale side up: When pleating corduroy pleat with the
wale side facing up as you feed the fabric through the pleater. When the needles go through the fabric they will pierce the fabric and not the
nap of the wale. If you pleat with the wale down you will have the increased chance of having skipped pleats. Pleating
wale side up will solve this problem.
Moiré effect: When corduroy is
pleated you will get a moiré effect. Once the corduroy is smocked and blocked
the moiré effects not as apparent. If you do not want this effect I usually suggest
that an inset is used of the corduroy. Especially if doing a yoke
dress or a jumper. Pleat an inset of the corduroy and smock on the wrong
(un-wale side) of the fabric inset. You will still get the matching color but not the moiré.
Picture smocking: When picture smocking on corduroy is
desired, pleat an inset of the corduroy and smock on the wrong side of the corduroy. You will not have the moiré effect and the coverage should be
sufficient with four strands of floss. It is difficult to get neat picture smocked figures when working with a wale fabric. Note that the
pleats are fatter than if using a broadcloth so figures will be larger. You will also have less pleats to work with due to the
thickness of the fabric so adjustments may have to be made to your design.
Geometric Smocking: I will usually use four strands of
floss to allow for coverage over the wale of the fabric and thickness of the
You may get better coverage if you use Floche.
Construction: Featherwale corduroy is fine enough
to make mini-piping for contrast. Corduroy will flake off so seams should be
finished with a zig-zagged or French seam. I usually will do French seams
on my corduroy garments easily without too much bulk.
Pressing: When pressing corduroy press with the wrong
side up so that the iron does not flatten the wale of the fabric. A pressing
cloth may also be used for pressing.
Bishops with Corduroy: Bishops are easily made with
corduroy. When I cut out a bishop from corduroy I will take 2" out of the
center front, center back and center of sleeves. (Ellen McCarn Ultimate
Bishop) The corduroy pleats are fatter than with lighter weight fabrics and less fabric
is needed at the neckline. (If you have too much heavy fabric at the bishop
neckline it may be difficult to pull pleats up tight enough to get the neck
band on. (You may need to eliminate less fabric if other bishop patterns
are used. The Ultimate Bishop is a very full bishop.)
To construct my bishop neckline before pleating I will usually
sew sleeve seams right sides together, trim to 1/8" and overcast with a
small zig-zag. This will allow the seams to pass easily through the pleater,
(Note: I have found that serged seams and French seams with corduroy are too
heavy and large to go through the pleater.
Hopefully these tips will help you with your construction and
smocking of corduroy garments. The fabric is wonderful to work with and your little
ones will love wearing it. If you have any questions or need a source for
corduroy you may contact me at Martha’s Heirlooms, 306 West Main St. Mason,
Ohio 45040 513-229-7340 or 1-888-277-6432 or by email at firstname.lastname@example.org.